Travelling to Sør Gjæslingan Islands

Sør Gjæslingan Islands at dusk

Craig (and most other kayakers) adopt a DTP-approach – Dynamic Trip Planning.

That was the case for us on the first day. The original plan was to be on the water at our put-in at Evenstadvågveien near Rørvik, by 10am, which was a 2-hour drive north of Namsos. This was always going to be a tall order, as we would be heading out on a 6-hour paddle to Sør Gjæslingan Island for a 2-night stay. Lots of sorting of gear & equipment required, after the flights.

However it was clear from the forecast and the conditions on the day that it was not feasible for the whole group to undertake the 12.5nm paddle in force 6, gusting force 7 winds on the nose, with a fair swell. A flurry of chat on the group chat and a meet up at Bodil & Asle’s command centre, DTP determined an alternative option would be to get the afternoon ferry, together with all the kayaks and gear.

Time to stand down and dig into a heap of cinnamon buns and copious amounts of fresh coffee!

Transporting 25 kayaks along with gear and provisions for 25 kayakers might initially seem like a complex logistical challenge. However, the excellent organisational skills of the klubb combined with the accommodating nature of the AtB NAMDALINGEN ferry crew transformed the process into a smooth and enjoyable experience for everyone. With all hands on deck, we ensured that every item was securely loaded, and we set sail for Sør Gjæslingan.

The “high-speed” ferry appeared to have two speeds 0 knots and 25 knots – spending very little time at any of the intermediate speed options. This gave us an exhilarating ride as it wove its route through countless islands, rivalling any amusement park!

Landing safely within the Sør Gjæslingan harbour, it was again all hands on deck to offload the kayaks & gear as quickly as possible, to allow the ferry to depart of its next destination. Once gear was sorted, we were assigned to our fisherman’s hut, which would be our home for the next two nights.

Sør Gjæslingan is a collection of small islands, some connected by causeways contructed in the 1940’s. We landed on Flatholmen island, at the centre of the community.

Once sorted, the Irish crew headed out across the windswept causeways to Nakken, the adjoining island, where our hut, Staværingsbua, was perched on the water’s edge. The original hut was constructed over 100 years ago and the Kystmuseet Norveg (Coastal Museum Norveg) and the island website contain fascinating information and insights about island life.


“It was difficult to find a place to stay when the fishermen from Staværingen were first operating in Gjæslingan.

The fishing hut was built on Nakken, an islet with a bridge connecting it to Flatholmen, which was the "center" with a telephone, infirmary, fishermen's home, caretaker's house and shop, as well as a large pier with a reception for fish.

In the heydays the fisherman's hut had an occupancy of up to 20 men. They slept in the loft/attic with the sash window on the west side always ajar. Whoever was closest to the window got snow on their blanket when the weather conditions were like that.”

– https://sor-gjaeslingan.no/nakken-velfjordsnakken/stavaeringsbua/


Since the hut would have originally accommodated twenty fisherman – for the ten Irish crew, there was ample space for us to spread across the ground floor and loft sleeping areas, in relative comfort.

Recreation of the old photograph of the original occupants of the fisherman's hut on Sør Gjæslingan

Replicating an old photograph of the original occupants of our fisherman’s hut

Gear sorted and it was time to head for Nakktun / our dining hall, where we sat for a very welcome feast after the day’s adventures. Welcomed by our hosts, we settled in for an evening of craic and catching up with old friends.

As dusk approached, Asle & I went exploring further out west along the causeways, to Lyngsnesholmen and Store Langøya islands. A windswept landscape, with a low profile to the stormy sea.

It was great to start getting some different views across Sør Gjæslingan and reflect on life on the islands over 100 years ago.

With the electricity turned off at 11 o’clock at night, the remainder of the evening of “ceol & craic” was undertaken under candle light.

Stumbling back to our hut around midnight, nothing was left but to hope for calmer weather in the morning and a paddle around the many islands.

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Arriving in Namsos

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Exploring Sør Gjæslingan Islands